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jeudi 23 avril 2026

This Insta360 Phone Gimbal Is at Its Lowest Price Ever Right Now

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Smartphone cameras have come a long way, but the moment you start walking or moving around, even small shakes can show up in your footage. That’s where a phone gimbal like the Insta360 Flow 2 Pro comes in—it steadies your shots without turning filming into a whole production. And right now, its Ultimate Creator Bundle is down to $169.99 (from $199.99), which, according to price trackers, is the lowest it’s been so far.

This bundle includes the Flow 2 Pro itself, an AI tracker for more reliable subject following, a magnetic phone mount for quick attachment, a USB-C charging cable, and a carry case to keep everything together when you’re on the move. It works with most modern smartphones, including larger models like the iPhone 16 Pro Max, and it’s easy to get going. You unfold it, snap your phone onto the magnetic mount, and it powers on by itself. After the initial setup, it reconnects automatically, making it easy to grab a quick clip without fiddling with settings each time—a detail PCMag noted in its “excellent” review.

The design leans toward convenience. There’s a built-in tripod at the base and a telescoping rod that extends up to 8.26 inches, so you can set it down for stable shots or pull back for wider framing without carrying extra gear. Most controls sit within thumb reach, including a joystick and zoom wheel, along with gesture controls for starting or stopping recording. Those gestures aren’t something you’ll master immediately, and the button labels can be hard to read in certain lighting, but the layout starts to feel natural after a few uses. Battery life is rated at up to 10 hours, and the gimbal can also charge your phone while you’re shooting.

The stabilization itself works well, especially when walking or panning. Subject tracking is another highlight. Once locked, it follows movement smoothly and can pick the subject back up if they step out of frame for a moment. The companion app adds more control, including shooting modes, editing tools, and a built-in teleprompter. There is also a remote control feature that lets you operate the camera from another phone through a browser, which is useful for solo shooting. For creators who want smoother footage without carrying a full camera rig, this setup covers most everyday needs.




Here's What 'Core Sleep' Really Means, According to Your Apple Watch

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Let's talk about one of the most confusing terms you’ll see on your fitness tracker—specifically your Apple Watch. Next to REM sleep, which you’ve probably heard of, and “deep” sleep, which feels self explanatory, there’s “core” sleep. And if you search or ask AI what core sleep means, you’ll often get a definition that is completely different from how Apple uses the term. So let’s break it down.

On an Apple Watch, "core sleep" is another name for light sleep, which scientists also call stages N1-N2. It is not a type of deep sleep, and has no relation to REM. But in the scientific literature, "core sleep" is not a sleep stage at all. It can refer to a portion of the night that includes both deep and light sleep stages, and in other cases can be used to mean your longest or most important stretch of time in bed. There are a few other definitions, which I'll go into below. But first, since you're probably here because you saw that term in Apple Health, let's talk about how Apple uses it.

"Core sleep" in the Apple Watch is the same as light sleep

Let me give you a straightforward explanation of what you’re seeing when you look at your Apple sleep data. Your Apple Watch tries to guess, mainly through your movements, when you’re in each stage of sleep. (To truly know your sleep stages would require a sleep study with more sophisticated equipment, like an electroencephalogram. The watch is just doing its best with the data it has.) 

Apple says its watch can tell the difference between four different states: 

  • Awake

  • Light (“core”) sleep

  • Deep sleep

  • REM sleep

These categories roughly correspond to the sleep stages that neuroscientists can observe with polysomnography, which involves hooking you up to an electroencephalogram, or EEG. (That’s the thing where they attach wires to your head.) Scientists recognize three stages of non-REM sleep, with the third being described as deep sleep. That means stages 1 and 2, which are sometimes called “light” sleep, are being labeled as “core” sleep by your wearable.  

In other words: Apple's definition of "core sleep" is identical to scientists' definition of "light sleep." It is otherwise known as N2 sleep. (More on that in a minute.) So why didn’t Apple use the same wording as everyone else? The company says in a document on its sleep stage algorithm that it was worried people would misunderstand the term "light sleep" if it called it that.

It writes: "The label Core was chosen to avoid possible unintended implications of the term light, because the N2 stage is predominant (often making up more than 50 percent of a night’s sleep), normal, and an important aspect of sleep physiology, containing sleep spindles and K-complexes." In other words, Apple thought we might assume that "light" sleep is less important than "deep" sleep, so it chose a new, important-sounding name to use in place of "light."

A chart on the same page lays it out: non-REM stages 1 and 2 fall under the Apple category of “core” sleep, while stage 3 is “deep” sleep. That’s how Apple defined it in testing: If an EEG said a person was in stage 2 when the watch said they were in “core,” that was counted as a success for the algorithm.

What are the known sleep stages, and where does core sleep fit in?

Let’s back up to consider what was known about sleep stages before Apple started renaming them. The current scientific understanding, which is based on brain wave patterns that can be read with an EEG, includes these stages: 

Non-REM stage 1 (N1) 

N1 only lasts a few minutes. You’re breathing normally. Your body is beginning to relax, and your brain waves start to look different than they do when you’re awake. This would be considered part of your “light” sleep. The Apple Watch considers this to be part of your core sleep stage.

Non-REM stage 2 (N2)

Also usually considered “light” sleep, N2 makes up about half of your sleep time. This stage includes spikes of brain activity called sleep spindles, and distinctive brainwave patterns called K complexes. (These are what the Apple document mentioned above.) This stage of sleep is thought to be when we consolidate our memories. Fun fact: if you grind your teeth in your sleep, it will mostly be in this stage. This stage makes up most of what Apple reports as your core sleep.

Non-REM stage 3 (N3) 

N3 is often called “deep” sleep, and this stage accounts for about a quarter of your night. It has the slowest brain waves, so it’s sometimes called “slow wave sleep.” It’s hard to wake someone up from this stage, and if you succeed, they’ll be groggy for a little while afterward. This is the stage where the most body repair tends to happen, including muscle recovery, bone growth in children, and immune system strengthening. As we age, we spend less time in N3 and more time in N2.

(There was an older classification that split off the deepest sleep into its own stage, calling it non-REM stage 4, but currently that deepest portion is just considered part of stage 3.) 

REM sleep

REM sleep is so named because this is where we have Rapid Eye Movement. Your body is temporarily paralyzed, except for the eyes and your breathing muscles. This is the stage best known for dreaming (although dreams can occur in other stages as well).

The brain waves of a person in REM sleep look very similar to those of a person who is awake, which is why some sleep-tracking apps show blocks of REM as occurring near the top of the graph, near wakefulness. We don’t usually enter REM sleep until we’ve been through the other stages, and we cycle through these stages all night. Usually REM sleep is fairly short during the beginning of the night, and gets longer with each cycle. 

How much core sleep do I need?

Using Apple's definition, in which core sleep is the same as light sleep, it's normal for almost half of your sleep to be core sleep. Sleep scientists give an approximate breakdown (although the exact numbers may vary from person to person, and your needs aren't always the same every night):

  • N1 (very light sleep): About 5% of the total (just a few minutes)

  • N2 (light or "core" sleep): About 45%, so just under four hours if you normally sleep for eight hours

  • N3 (deep sleep): About 25%, so about two hours if you normally sleep for eight hours

  • REM: About 25%, so also about two hours.

How to get more core sleep

If your Apple watch says you're getting less core sleep than what I mentioned above, you might wonder how you can get more core (or light) sleep. Before you take any action, though, you should know that wearables aren't very good at knowing exactly what stage of sleep you are in. They're usually (but not always!) pretty good at telling when you are asleep versus awake, so they can be useful for knowing whether you slept six hours or eight. But I wouldn't make any changes to my routine based on the specific sleep stage numbers. The algorithm can easily miscategorize some of your light sleep as deep sleep, or vice versa.

That said, the best way to get more core sleep is to get more and better sleep in general. Start with this basic sleep hygiene checklist. Among the most important items:

  • Give yourself a bedtime routine with at least 30 minutes of wind-down time where you try to do something relaxing.

  • Have a consistent wake-up time.

  • Don't look at screens right before bed.

  • Keep your bedroom dark and cool.

  • Don't have alcohol or caffeine in the evenings.

Improving your sleep overall will improve all your sleep stages, whether your Apple Watch can tell them apart or not.

Other ways people use the term “core sleep”

I really wish Apple had chosen another term, because the phrase “core sleep” has been used in other ways. It either doesn’t refer to a sleep stage at all, or if it is associated with sleep stages, it’s used to refer to deep sleep stages. 

In the 1980s, sleep scientist James Horne proposed that your first few sleep cycles (taking up maybe the first five hours of the night) constitute the “core” sleep we all need to function. The rest of the night is “optional” sleep, which ideally we’d still get every night, but it’s not a big deal to miss out from time to time. He described this idea in a 1988 book called Why We Sleep (no relation to the 2017 book by another author) but you can see his earlier paper on the topic here. He uses the terms “obligatory” and “facultative” sleep in that paper, and switched to the core/optional terminology later. 

You’ll also find people using the phrase “core sleep” to refer to everything but light sleep. For example, this paper on how sleep changes as we age compares their findings in terms of sleep stages with Horne’s definition of core sleep. In doing so, they describe core sleep as mainly consisting of deep sleep stages N3-N4 (in other words, N3 as described above).

From there, somehow the internet has gotten the idea that N3 and REM are considered “core” sleep. I don’t know how that happened, and I don’t see it when I search the scientific literature. I have seen it on “what is core sleep?” junk articles on the websites of companies selling weighted blankets and melatonin gummies. Google's AI overview, for its part, mishmashes all these definitions to come up with something that is, currently, completely nonsensical. But who knows, that may have changed by the time you read this article.

For one final, contradictory definition, the phrase “core sleep” is also used by people who are into polyphasic sleep. This is the idea that you can replace a full night’s sleep with several naps during the day, something that biohacker types keep trying to make happen, even though it never pans out. They use the term pretty straightforwardly: If you have a nighttime nap that is longer than your other naps, that’s your “core sleep.” Honestly, that’s a fair use of the word. I'll allow it.

So, to wrap up: Core sleep, if you’re a napper, is the longest block of sleep you get during a day. Core sleep, to scientists who study sleep deprivation, is a hypothesis about which part of a night’s sleep is the most important. But if you’re just here because you were wondering what Apple Health or your Apple Watch's sleep app means by "core sleep," it means stages N1-N2, or light sleep.



mercredi 22 avril 2026

You Can Get These New Sony Noise-Canceling Earbuds on Sale for $65 Right Now

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Sony’s WF-C710N earbuds are on sale for just $64.99 on StackSocial right now. They're open-box models—they may arrive in repackaged materials with minor handling marks, but they’re verified to be in new condition and include a one-year third-party warranty—marked down at 50% off their full price. These are part of Sony’s newer lineup, and they focus on everyday usability rather than competing with flagship earbuds.

The Sony WF-C710N earbuds have active noise canceling with dual noise sensors, Bluetooth 5.3, and support for AAC and SBC codecs. Pairing is quick, especially with Android and Windows devices, and the multipoint connection lets you stay connected to two devices at once. In practice, that means you can switch between your phone and laptop without re-pairing every time. The listening experience is tuned for general use. The 5mm drivers lean toward a slightly bass-forward sound, but vocals stay clear enough for podcasts and calls. Sony also includes its DSEE processing, which helps improve compressed audio, so streaming tracks sound a bit fuller than they otherwise would.

Noise canceling works well for steady background sounds like traffic or fans, but it won’t completely block everything around you. When you do want to stay aware, there’s an ambient mode you can adjust, including one that focuses on voices so you can hear people without taking your earbuds out. These are built for daily wear, so comfort and convenience are a big part of the experience.

The earbuds are light, and the case is small enough to carry without a second thought. They’re also rated IPX4 for water resistance, so sweat and light splashes are not a concern. You also get around 8.5 hours of battery life with noise canceling on, and the case brings the total to roughly 30 hours (your mileage may vary depending on use). All things considered, the Sony WF-C710N earbuds are a great buy at 50% off right now.



This Samsung Galaxy S26 Is $100 Off Right Now

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The Samsung Galaxy S26 is down to $799.99 for the 256GB unlocked version, a drop from $899.99 and its lowest price so far, according to price trackers. This is Samsung’s smallest flagship for 2026, and it leans into that idea of giving you most of the high-end experience without the size or cost of the Ultra model. The design feels familiar if you have used a Galaxy before, and is relatively compact at 6.3 inches, so it sits comfortably in one hand without feeling cramped. It also comes with an IP68 rating for dust and water resistance.

It runs Android 16 with Samsung’s One UI 8.1, and it is set to receive seven years of updates, which is still one of the longest support windows you will find on an Android phone. Performance is not a concern here—the Snapdragon 8 Elite Gen 5 processor for Galaxy keeps everything fast, whether you are jumping between apps, editing photos, or playing games. Plus, it has a bright and sharp display (with a 120Hz refresh rate) that holds up well outdoors. Samsung’s newer AI tools are built-in, too—you can edit photos using text prompts, clean up document scans, or get suggestions through features like Now Brief. That said, its battery life is average, with just over 15 hours of video streaming, according to this PCMag review.

The triple-camera system, with a 50MP main sensor, 12MP ultrawide, and 10MP telephoto, delivers solid results in most conditions. Photos look natural, and low-light shots benefit from a brighter main sensor, though you may notice some softness compared to the Ultra model. The camera module also causes a slight wobble when the phone is placed flat, which is common but still noticeable. For most people, though, the S26 covers the basics quite well—delivering strong performance, a bright display, and capable cameras in a form factor that is easier to handle than most flagship phones.




Galaxy Enhance-X Is Samsung's Best Photo and Video Editing Tool

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Samsung's One UI software for its Galaxy phones comes packed with features and functionality, but there are also several official extra apps made by Samsung that don't come preinstalled on its phones—and they're well worth checking out.

I've already written about the various Good Lock plug-ins—which let you build your own keyboards and set separate volume levels for individual apps—but that's not all there is to explore when it comes to additional apps. There's also Galaxy Enhance-X, a tool for polishing and improving your photos and videos, as well as manipulating digital documents. Enhance-X can do everything from applying cinematic filters to pictures, to scanning in documents and translating them at the same time, and it's free to install and use.

It's also just been given a major revamp, with Samsung cleaning up the app's interface as well as adding some additional features. If you use a Samsung phone, you can get Enhance-X from the Galaxy Store.

Learning the basics in Enhance-X

There are now three tabs to work with in Enhance-X, part of the recent app interface revamp: Plug-ins, Home, and History. The Plug-ins tab is a good place to start, because it shows off some of the app's capabilities: Tap the download icon (the downward arrow) on FilmStyle to access nine extra filters for your pictures.

These filters and many more effects can be applied to your photos and videos from the Home tab. This tab is essentially a file picker—you can select one or more photos and videos to work with. To switch to the standard Gallery app view (complete with albums and collections), tap the flower-style icon in the top right corner.

Samsung Galaxy Enhance-X
Enhance-X comes with optional plug-ins. Credit: Lifehacker

Pick one or more images, and you can choose between Photo tools and Doc tools (for scans) at the bottom; if you're selecting videos, there's just the Video tools option. That then takes you into the full editing interface, where you can see everything Enhance-X has to offer (including the FilmStyle filters). Use the icons at the bottom of the screen to browse through the tools, which are typically one-tap enhancements that the app will configure itself. There's Colorize for adding color to black and white photos, for example; HDR for boosting dynamic range; and Fix blur for images that aren't quite sharp enough.

Samsung Galaxy Enhance-X
HDR is one of the color customization options. Credit: Lifehacker

Many of these options are useful quick fixes, but there are some fun tools as well. Tap Creative then 24-hr time lapse, and you can turn any image into a short video—nothing in the image will move, but the colors will shift as if you're seeing the picture go through a full night-and-day cycle.

Some of the tweaks available will vary depending on the type of image or video you've selected. Pick a portrait shot for example, and you get access to the Face tool—this gives you sliders for adjusting the smoothness and tone of the facial features, and you can adjust the strength of each effect individually.

Exploring more Enhance-X features

If you pick Film style filters from the Suggested tab when editing a picture, you can try out the filters we downloaded earlier. Use the thumbnails to browse between the different effects and see how they work—if you tap the small "i" button to the left you get a useful rundown of what each filter does and which types of images it works best with. Over on the video tools side, you've got options like Slow mo. This presents you with a timeline of your video, and if you press and hold at any point in that timeline, Enhance-X adds a special slow-motion effect.

Samsung Galaxy Enhance-X
The app lets you preview changes before applying them. Credit: Lifehacker

There are also simple trimming tools for your video clips, as well as a Single take section where you get to play around with effects like rebound (which creates a video that can loop infinitely) and highlights (which picks out the best parts of the video). Each effect can be previewed on screen before saving.

For documents scanned as photos, there are a host of different options. You're able to apply crops, filters (to add or remove color), text, and scribbled highlights; you can combine different scans together in one document; and you can remove any unwanted scanned elements (like fingers).

Samsung Galaxy Enhance-X
There are many different actions you can take on scanned documents. Credit: Lifehacker

Choose Add text, for example, and you get the option to drop a text box right on top of your scan, with settings for font size, style, and color. Whether you need to add annotations or correct mistakes on the original document, it's straightforward and intuitive to use, and means you don't have to call up a separate app or start editing on a desktop interface.

Head to the History tab to review all your edits and undo them if necessary. Enhance-X is something I've kept on my Galaxy phone ever since I discovered it, and it's often come in use for edits that it can do more quickly than other apps or that other apps can't do at all—including the apps that actually come with One UI.



Peloton Now Has Its Own 'Zone 2' Classes

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One million years ago (sometime before 2020), Peloton had a series of Bike classes designed around heart rate zone training. Christine D’Ercole would tell you what zone your heart rate should've been in for each part of the workout, and you’d adjust your effort accordingly. Those classes are long gone, but Peloton is dipping a toe back into the world of heart rate training with its new “Zone 2” collection. 

Peloton's collections are just groupings of existing classes, so there aren't (yet?) any classes that are designed around heart rate zones. Instead, if you tap the “Zone 2” collection on your Bike, Tread, or Row, or in the phone app, you’ll see 16 Zone 2-ish classes, including: 

  • Four cycling classes, including two 60-minute Power Zone Endurance rides and two shorter Power Zone Recovery rides. 

  • Eight “Tread + Outdoor” classes, about half of which are walks and half are runs. You can do these either on a treadmill, or outdoors with your phone in your pocket. 

  • Four Row classes, all labeled as Endurance Row and ranging from 20 to 45 minutes. 

What it’s like to take one of Peloton's Zone 2 classes

My watch and my Peloton screen
Credit: Beth Skwarecki

I tested out one of the cycling classes—the 45-minute Power Zone Recovery Ride with pro cyclist Christian Vande Velde. Power Zone training is no relation to heart rate zones. Instead of watching your heart rate, the instructor cues you to pedal hard enough to match one of seven power zones that are based on how much mechanical power you are putting into the pedals. 

Normally, Power Zone workouts range from zone 1 to 5, with Power Zone Max classes peaking in the higher zones. Power Zone Endurance rides (PZE) are at the other end of the spectrum, with most of the class spent in zones 2 and 3. 

The two Power Zone Endurance rides in the Zone 2 collection are notable for being lower intensity than most other PZEs. Instead of bouncing between power zones 2 and 3, you’re in power zone 2 the whole time. The Power Zone Recovery rides are even easier: you bounce between power zones 1 and 2. 

I hooked up my trusty heart rate chest strap to both my Peloton Bike and to my Coros watch, and took the class. We spent the first 15 minutes in zone 1, then a few short segments in zone 2 (while standing up out of the saddle!) with long zone 1 sections between. If this doesn’t sound like much of a workout, you’re right—Christian emphasized that “this is not training. This is recovery from your training.” 

What is the purpose of Zone 2 classes on Peloton? 

Christian’s statements during the class made me wonder if people might find this type of workout to be a bait-and-switch. If you listen to the fitness influencers, we should all be doing more—maybe all—of our cardio in heart rate zone 2. So what do you mean these classes aren’t training? 

Truthfully, I get it: Heart rate zone 2 is a pretty low intensity of exercise. It’s a great low-stress addition to your training routine, especially if you’re trying to increase the number of miles you run or hours you train. But if you’re training to get fitter, you need intensity! Heart rate zone 3 has plenty of benefits, and the VO2max-boosting Norwegian 4x4 workout does its magic in heart rate zone 4. 

I could definitely see myself reaching for the Zone 2 collection when I want a recovery day or an easier version of an endurance day. But I’d still stick with the regular PZE classes for a more standard endurance workout.

Do Peloton’s Zone 2 classes actually put you in zone 2? 

Peloton, Coros, Garmin screenshots showing how much time I spent in each zone
Left to right: Peloton, Coros, Garmin. All are using data from the same ride. (Coros recorded a little bit of my stretching session afterward, which is why the average HR is different on that one.) Credit: Beth Skwarecki

Besides checking out the class design and intensity level, my other reason for trying one of these classes was to see whether my heart rate actually reached, and stayed in, zone 2 while taking it. 

Coospo H6M Bluetooth/ANT+ Heart Rate Monitor
COOSPO Heart Rate Monitor Chest Strap H6M, Bluetooth ANT+ Heart Rate Monitor Chest Sensor with 400H Battery, HRM Works with Strava/Wahoo Fitness/Polar Beat/Peloton/Zwift/DDP Yoga App

Whether it succeeded depends on whose definition of zone 2 you’re using—because apps disagree. If you connect a heart rate monitor to your Peloton equipment or app, you’ll get Peloton’s five heart rate zones, which define zone 2 as being 65% to 75% of your maximum heart rate. On the other hand, my Coros watch has six zones, with zone 2 being 50% to 60% of my max heart rate. 

For what it’s worth, my average heart rate was 122, which is around 60% of my max.

  • Coros tells me I spent 39% of my time in the “warm up” zone (zone 2) and 43% in the “fat burn” zone (zone 3). 

  • Peloton says I spent 65% of my time in zone 1, and 31% in zone 2. 

  • If I were using a device like a Fitbit or Pixel Watch, I would have been split pretty evenly between “moderate” and “vigorous” (low and medium, in a three-zone scale). 

  • If I were using an Apple Watch, I would have been split between zone 1 and zone 2. 

  • Garmin is the “winner” here, in a sense—it’s the only system that has me in zone 2 for the majority (57%) of the ride, with 23% in zone 1 and 15% in zone 3. (To get those numbers, I used the Peloton-to-Garmin sync.)

Watching my heart rate on the Peloton screen (with a paired chest strap), I noticed that most of the time when I was told to pedal in power zone 1, my heart rate was near the top end of heart rate zone 1. On the intervals, I found that standing up spiked my heart rate into zone 3 pretty quickly, but that if I did the intervals while seated, my heart rate didn’t go above zone 2. In part that’s because standing up is less efficient (so you work harder for the same output), but I don’t think that’s the only reason. 

Heart rate reflects more than just your effort during an exercise; it can also change with body position (standing versus sitting) and other factors, like how warmed-up you are, the temperature of your room you’re in, and more. Which is why cyclists prefer power zones to heart rate zones, in general—power is a more direct measurement of what you’re doing on the bike. 



mardi 21 avril 2026

This Floatable Anker Speaker Is Now $50 Off

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The Soundcore Boom 2 is down to $89.98 on Amazon, a solid drop from its usual $139.99 and, according to price trackers, the lowest it has been so far. It has an IPX7 rating and can float, so it is fine around pools or at the beach without needing constant attention. If it falls into the water, it will come back up on its own—your music will cut out while it is submerged, since Bluetooth cannot transmit through water—but in most situations, the bigger advantage is that the speaker itself survives without any issues.

Sound-wise, the Boom 2 delivers up to 80 watts through a setup that includes two tweeters and a dedicated woofer, which is enough to fill a large room or carry across an outdoor space. There’s also a BassUp feature that boosts the low end, and turning it off noticeably reduces the impact, so you will likely want to keep it on for a fuller, heavier sound. You can also pair a second unit for stereo sound, though it is limited to Bluetooth since there’s no wifi support.

There is also a built-in light system that syncs with your music. It adds a bit of atmosphere at night, though it also drains the battery faster. Speaking of, battery life is rated at up to 24 hours, but that figure assumes moderate volume with lights and bass boost turned off. In real use, especially at higher volumes, expect less. Charging takes about five and a half hours over USB-C, which works best as an overnight recharge rather than a quick top-up.

That said, the design focuses more on durability than refinement, and the sound, while loud, does not have the same balance you get from speakers like the JBL Flip 6 or Sony SRS-XB23, especially in the mids and highs. The companion app helps by letting you adjust the EQ and control the lighting, which gives you some flexibility to shape the sound. Still, this is not meant for detailed listening sessions or for someone who prioritizes audio precision, notes this PCMag review. It works best for people who want a speaker that can handle unpredictable environments, play loud without much effort, and keep going through a full day of use.




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