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samedi 25 avril 2026

This Buzzy Pocket-Sized E-Reader Is Under $60 on Amazon for the Next Few Hours

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I've been covering e-readers and e-ink tablets for Lifehacker for a few years now, and I haven't ever encountered a product with as many enthusiastic fans as the Xteink X4, a teeny tiny, bare bones e-reader from China that has replaced my beloved phone-shaped Boox Palma 2 as my distraction-free reading device of choice—not the least because it's a heck of a lot cheaper, around $70 to the Palma 2's $250. And if you act fast, right now you can score an X4 for less than $60 during an Amazon flash sale.

As I explain in my review, the X4 is a little fiddily, a little janky, and not for everyone—but it has a huge cult following of tinkerers who share tips and tricks on Reddit, and have even written their own custom firmware to replace the (admittedly underwhelming) stock operating system. With minimal effort, you can transform it into a truly excellent, stripped-down e-reader perfect for carrying it with you everywhere you go—seriously, it's small enough that I often forget it's in my pocket.

Amazon's flash sale only lasts for a few more hours, so act fast if you're interested. But even if you miss out, the Xteink X4 is still a great buy at the regular $69 price. (Though you might want to wait for the forthcoming Xteink S4, which will add some quality -of-life improvements like a touch screen, a front light, and Android support.)



vendredi 24 avril 2026

10 Hacks Every YouTube Music User Should Know

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YouTube Music isn't the most feature-rich of all the music streaming services, but it is a great option for those who love music videos, user-generated content, and the YouTube ecosystem overall. If you have YouTube Music, or are considering switching from another platform, these are the best tips and tricks to get the most out of your listening experience.

Use these tools to transfer your playlists from another streaming service

If you're moving to YouTube Music from another app, you don't have to start from scratch. YouTube has a direct integration with Apple Music for playlist transfers. For other streaming services like Spotify, you can import using third-party apps like TuneMyMusic or Soundiiz for a fee (for a one-time transfer, you only need to subscribe for a month). To move data from Apple Music to YouTube Music, sign in to Apple Music and choose Request to transfer a copy of your data > Apple Music playlists > Continue. You'll need to select your Google account and tap Confirm Export.

Upload your own music to your library

If YouTube Music doesn't have something you want to listen to, or if you want to add your personal library to the platform, you can upload up to 100,000 songs from your computer. That said, there are some limitations when uploading music. Other users won't be able to play those songs in shared playlists, and they won't be considered for your YouTube Music recommendations. To upload your own content, either drag files to music.youtube.com on desktop or click your profile photo and select Upload music. Files must be FLAC, m4a, mp3, OGG, or WMA.

Pause your watch history to keep content from influencing your recommendations

Spotify has an "exclude from taste profile" option that allows you to keep specific tracks or playlists from influencing your personalized recommendations or appearing in your year-end Wrapped. YouTube Music's analog isn't as nuanced; instead, you can pause your overall watch history, which means videos won't show in your history or be used for recommendations. Note that this setting applies across both YouTube and YouTube Music if you're signed in with the same account. To pause your watch history, go to Settings > Privacy & location or Privacy & data and flip the toggle next to Pause watch history.

Another option is to exclude videos you've liked on YouTube from your YouTube Music recommendations. Go to Settings > Recommendations or Playback & Restrictions and toggle off Show your liked music from YouTube.

Improve streaming quality with EQ, playback, and normalization

For the best listening experience, you can adjust a handful of YouTube Music audio quality settings. First, go to Settings > Data saving (on Android) or Playback & restrictions (on iOS) > Audio quality on Wi-Fi and select High or Always High. You can do the same for mobile data streaming from this menu and for downloads via Settings > Background & downloads or Downloads & storage. YouTube Music listeners on Android have an equalizer, which allows you to customize bass and treble levels across nine bands or choose from music genre presets. You'll find this under Settings > Playback > Equalizer. YouTube Music also recently introduced an audio normalization feature for consistent volume across tracks, though it doesn't appear to be available to all users.

Save data with audio-only streaming

When listening to YouTube Music on mobile, you may not always want the data drag of videos, especially if your connection is poor. You can disable video playback with audio-only mode, which will switch music and podcasts that have video to audio-only versions. On the app, tap your profile photo and go to Settings > Data saving or Playback & Restrictions. Flip the toggles for Don’t play music videos and Don’t play podcast videos. Note that this feature is available for Premium subscribers only.

Use Smart Downloads to manage device storage space

YouTube Premium subscribers also have a mobile feature called Smart Downloads. When enabled, YouTube will automatically download recommended videos to your device for offline viewing. The setting is turned off by default, but if you enable it, you can select how much storage space you want to allot to downloaded content. Go to Settings > Background & downloads or Downloads & storage and flip the toggle next to Smart downloads. You can then set the slider to your chosen storage capacity. There's also an option to have YouTube Music automatically download up to 20 of your recently played songs. Note that downloads will only occur when you're connected to wifi and will pause when your device storage is low.

Use hashtags to search for playlists

One way to find relevant content on YouTube Music is to search with hashtags, which creators can add to titles and descriptions of videos and playlists. Simply type the # symbol followed by the keyword, which can be anything from an artist or genre, to #newmusic or #live. YouTube Music also allows search operators (like a standard Google search), and it has a Sound Search function that uses your microphone on mobile to identify a song being played, sung, or hummed, which you can then save to your library.

Invite collaborators to shared playlists

The most popular music streaming services all have some type of collaborative feature, from Spotify's real-time Jams to Apple Music's shared playlists. On YouTube Music, collaboration allows multiple users to contribute to a playlist and add songs and videos. To invite collaborators, tap the pencil icon on a playlist, tap Collaborate, toggle the Collaborate feature on, and tap Invite collaborators to share the link. Playlists must be either public or unlisted for collaboration. A more recent addition called Taste Match will automatically generate a new playlist every day based on participants' listening history. Taste Match can include up to 10 users. In the YouTube Music app, go to the Library tab and tap New > Taste match > Invite to share the link.

Use this feature to generate playlists with AI

Also like most other music streaming platforms, YouTube Music now has an AI-powered playlist generator, which uses Google's Gemini to translate natural language requests into custom playlists. In the Library tab, tap New > AI Playlist and enter a prompt, like "gentle rock with emotional depth" or "artists like [favorite artist]." I got decent results with these simple prompts, but some Reddit users note that more specific and detailed inputs tend to yield better outcomes.

Use these workarounds to block ads on the free tier

If you're not paying for a premium YouTube Music subscription, your listening will contain ads. An obvious fix is to upgrade to a paid plan (though some Premium subscribers have still been served ads) or you can try a workaround. One option is to listen through Brave Browser, which blocks ads on desktop and mobile without the need for a third-party extension. I've also seen users frequently recommend installing an ad blocker like the open-source uBlock Origin in Firefox or DuckDuckGo.



Nobody Can Agree on What 'Zone 2' Cardio Is

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“Zone 2” is the term the fitness world has (mostly) agreed upon to describe the low-intensity cardio most of us should be doing regularly. When you’re in zone 2, you’re working hard enough that you start breathing more heavily, but easy enough that you could hold a conversation while doing it. You stop a zone 2 session because your workout time is up, not because you’re too exhausted to continue. Zone 2 is defined in terms of heart rate, so what heart rate should you expect to see on your watch when you’re in zone 2? That’s where people disagree.

What is zone 2 training?

As I’ve explained before, the name “zone 2” comes from heart rate training. To train by heart rate, you use either a wristwatch with an optical heart rate sensor (that green light on the back) or a chest strap paired to your watch or just to a phone (chest straps are more accurate, and even a $30 one can do an excellent job).

To train by heart rate, you aim to keep your heart rate in the "zone" that gives you your desired workout. In most of the popular systems, there are five zones. Zone 1 is your resting or recovery zone; zone 2 is low intensity cardio; zone 3 is more or less medium; and zones 4 and 5 are for harder efforts, usually done for only a few minutes with recoveries in zone 1 or 2 in between. (I have a more detailed guide to the zone system here.) While zone 2 is the trendiest at the moment, the other zones still have uses. Personally, I think zone 3 is underrated, and probably most of us would be better off getting a mix of zones 2 and 3 for our steady cardio rather than pure zone 2. But that's a story for another time.

Heart rate zones are usually defined as percentages of your maximum heart rate. So when I set my Apple Watch to keep me in zone 2 during my runs, it wants my heart rate to be between 60% and 70% of maximum. Even at an easy effort, I found I was commonly exceeding that limit. On the other hand, when I hop on a Peloton bike, my heart rate is often still in zone 1 when I could swear I’m riding at a zone 2 effort. It turns out Peloton defines zone 2 as 65% to 75% of my max.

Who is right? Well, everybody. “Zone 2” isn’t a term with scientifically designed boundaries. Anybody can split up heart rate zones any way they like. (Stay tuned for my patented eight-zone system, coming as soon as I can find a way to monetize it!) If you train with more than one gadget, or if you find yourself discussing heart rate training with a friend who uses a different system than you do, it’s worth knowing the differences.

What heart rate percentage counts as zone 2?

Let’s take a tour of some of the more popular wearables and fitness systems that measure heart rate in a five-zone system, or something like it.

First, it’s important to know that most (not all) of these percentages are based on your max heart rate. To know your max heart rate, you need real-world numbers, and you shouldn't trust the default your app gives you. That default number is derived from a formula, and no formula will be accurate for everybody; max heart rate varies from person to person and can't be accurately predicted for individuals. You can do a field test, like getting your heart rate up by running more and more intense hill repeats. Or if you have plenty of experience with intense exercise, just take note of the highest heart rate number you've seen on your device; it will likely be close to your max.

Most zone systems just use a percentage of your max (however that max is calculated). There are other systems to consider, too. “Heart rate reserve” (HRR) means that you take the difference between your max and your resting heart rate (instead of between your max and zero) and calculate from there. Some devices will estimate a different benchmark, like your lactate threshold, and use that as a basis for the zones.

So, here are the zone 2 percentages from a variety of popular wearables, along with what they are percentages of:

  • Apple Watch: Zone 2 is 60-70% of your heart rate reserve, with your “resting” heart rate set to either 72 or a number the watch has picked up automatically, and your maximum calculated with the 220-age formula. (You can choose to set the zones manually, instead.)

  • Fitbit and Pixel: instead of “zone 2,” Fitbit devices have a "moderate" zone (formerly called “fat burn”) set at 40% to 59% of your heart rate reserve. To find your heart rate reserve, your max is calculated according to the 220-age formula, and your resting heart rate is measured by the device. You can set your max and your zones manually if you prefer.

  • Garmin: Depends on your device and on how you've chosen to set up your zones. As a percentage of max heart rate, zone 2 is 73-81%. As a percentage of heart rate reserve, it's 65-75%. And as a percentage of your lactate threshold heart rate (which the watch can automatically detect for you, and which normally falls between zones 4 and 5), it's 79-88% of that heart rate. Note that these numbers won't necessarily line up with each other. A heart rate that is in zone 2 on one of these systems may be in zone 3 on another. And, of course, you can set your max and/or your zones manually.

Some other fitness platforms have defined heart rate zones to be used with your training. To name a few:

  • Orangetheory gets its name from the “orange” zone it wants you to be in during workouts. Its equivalent of zone 2 would be the “blue” zone, at 61% to 70% of max heart rate. It uses an “industry standard formula” to determine your max, which Self reports is 208 minus 0.7 times your age. After you’ve taken 20 classes, an algorithm will pick out a new max heart rate for you.

  • Peloton defines heart rate zone 2 (no relation to Power Zone 2) as 65% to 75% of your max heart rate. Max heart rate is 220 minus your age, unless you adjust it manually in your settings.

  • The American College of Sports Medicine defines “light” training, arguably its version of zone 2, as 57% to 63% of maximum heart rate. “Moderate” is 64% to 76%.

How do you know which benchmark to use?

Rather than obsessing over numbers, think about the big picture and decide what training effect you are trying to achieve with your workouts. If you want to build your endurance with low-intensity cardio, or if you want to rack up minutes in zone 2 to help with weight loss, it doesn’t matter exactly what your heart rate works out to be. What matters is that you can do the exercise for a long time without fatiguing, but that you’re also not slacking off and barely doing any work at all.

In other words, you can use your gadget’s heart rate numbers as a guide, but keep them honest with a reality check based on what fitness professionals call “perceived exertion.” If you want a number to focus on, you can rate your exertion on a scale of 1 to 10—called RPE for “rating of perceived exertion”—and aim for an RPE of about 3 to 4.

Over time, you’ll start to notice what heart rate tends to show on your watch when you’re at that level. I know that if my heart rate is below 150, I’m doing a good job of keeping my jogging to a “zone 2" sort of effort. If it pokes up into the 160s at the beginning of a run, that’s probably harder than I’m going for—but if it hits 160 at the end of a long run on a hot day, that’s fine. (Heart rate changes with the temperature and the length of your workout, a phenomenon called cardiac drift.) These numbers are just examples, and my max is pretty high for my age, close to 200. Yours will be different.

Ultimately, this is probably the most accurate way of using heart rate to determine exercise intensity: Figure out the intensity you want first, and use heart rate as a guide to be able to hit that same intensity on a consistent basis. After all, if there were one correct number that was easy to determine, the different gadgets and platforms would have all gotten on board with it by now. So trust your body more than your watch.



These Third-Generation Apple AirPods Are $50 Off Right Now

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At $109.99, the Apple AirPods (3rd Generation) are selling at a clear discount from their usual $159.97 price at retailers like Best Buy. Shipping is free with Prime, while non-members pay an extra $6, and the deal is set to end in three days or when stock runs out. These are not Apple’s top-tier earbuds, but they cover the basics most people expect, especially if you already use an iPhone, iPad, or Mac.

Day-to-day use is about as simple as it gets. The H1 chip connects quickly to Apple devices and switches between them without much effort. Audio leans toward a balanced, slightly bass-forward profile that works fine for playlists, YouTube videos, and calls. Spatial Audio with head tracking is here too, adding a directional effect when watching supported content, though it feels more like a nice extra than a reason to buy. Battery life holds up at around six hours per charge, with the case bringing total listening time close to 24 hours. You can top them up with a Lightning cable, MagSafe, or any standard Qi wireless charger. 

Said, these earbuds use an open-ear design without silicone tips, so they sit loosely compared to other in-ear models. That can make them more comfortable for long stretches, but also less secure if you are moving around a lot, notes this PCMag review. The lack of a seal also means outside noise comes through, since there is no active noise cancellation or transparency mode. You don't get built-in EQ controls, either. And while the stem controls are responsive, it’s easy to press them by mistake when adjusting them. Still, for a straightforward, low-hassle pair of earbuds that work best inside Apple’s ecosystem, these third-generation Apple AirPods do a serviceable job.




jeudi 23 avril 2026

This Insta360 Phone Gimbal Is at Its Lowest Price Ever Right Now

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Smartphone cameras have come a long way, but the moment you start walking or moving around, even small shakes can show up in your footage. That’s where a phone gimbal like the Insta360 Flow 2 Pro comes in—it steadies your shots without turning filming into a whole production. And right now, its Ultimate Creator Bundle is down to $169.99 (from $199.99), which, according to price trackers, is the lowest it’s been so far.

This bundle includes the Flow 2 Pro itself, an AI tracker for more reliable subject following, a magnetic phone mount for quick attachment, a USB-C charging cable, and a carry case to keep everything together when you’re on the move. It works with most modern smartphones, including larger models like the iPhone 16 Pro Max, and it’s easy to get going. You unfold it, snap your phone onto the magnetic mount, and it powers on by itself. After the initial setup, it reconnects automatically, making it easy to grab a quick clip without fiddling with settings each time—a detail PCMag noted in its “excellent” review.

The design leans toward convenience. There’s a built-in tripod at the base and a telescoping rod that extends up to 8.26 inches, so you can set it down for stable shots or pull back for wider framing without carrying extra gear. Most controls sit within thumb reach, including a joystick and zoom wheel, along with gesture controls for starting or stopping recording. Those gestures aren’t something you’ll master immediately, and the button labels can be hard to read in certain lighting, but the layout starts to feel natural after a few uses. Battery life is rated at up to 10 hours, and the gimbal can also charge your phone while you’re shooting.

The stabilization itself works well, especially when walking or panning. Subject tracking is another highlight. Once locked, it follows movement smoothly and can pick the subject back up if they step out of frame for a moment. The companion app adds more control, including shooting modes, editing tools, and a built-in teleprompter. There is also a remote control feature that lets you operate the camera from another phone through a browser, which is useful for solo shooting. For creators who want smoother footage without carrying a full camera rig, this setup covers most everyday needs.




Here's What 'Core Sleep' Really Means, According to Your Apple Watch

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Let's talk about one of the most confusing terms you’ll see on your fitness tracker—specifically your Apple Watch. Next to REM sleep, which you’ve probably heard of, and “deep” sleep, which feels self explanatory, there’s “core” sleep. And if you search or ask AI what core sleep means, you’ll often get a definition that is completely different from how Apple uses the term. So let’s break it down.

On an Apple Watch, "core sleep" is another name for light sleep, which scientists also call stages N1-N2. It is not a type of deep sleep, and has no relation to REM. But in the scientific literature, "core sleep" is not a sleep stage at all. It can refer to a portion of the night that includes both deep and light sleep stages, and in other cases can be used to mean your longest or most important stretch of time in bed. There are a few other definitions, which I'll go into below. But first, since you're probably here because you saw that term in Apple Health, let's talk about how Apple uses it.

"Core sleep" in the Apple Watch is the same as light sleep

Let me give you a straightforward explanation of what you’re seeing when you look at your Apple sleep data. Your Apple Watch tries to guess, mainly through your movements, when you’re in each stage of sleep. (To truly know your sleep stages would require a sleep study with more sophisticated equipment, like an electroencephalogram. The watch is just doing its best with the data it has.) 

Apple says its watch can tell the difference between four different states: 

  • Awake

  • Light (“core”) sleep

  • Deep sleep

  • REM sleep

These categories roughly correspond to the sleep stages that neuroscientists can observe with polysomnography, which involves hooking you up to an electroencephalogram, or EEG. (That’s the thing where they attach wires to your head.) Scientists recognize three stages of non-REM sleep, with the third being described as deep sleep. That means stages 1 and 2, which are sometimes called “light” sleep, are being labeled as “core” sleep by your wearable.  

In other words: Apple's definition of "core sleep" is identical to scientists' definition of "light sleep." It is otherwise known as N2 sleep. (More on that in a minute.) So why didn’t Apple use the same wording as everyone else? The company says in a document on its sleep stage algorithm that it was worried people would misunderstand the term "light sleep" if it called it that.

It writes: "The label Core was chosen to avoid possible unintended implications of the term light, because the N2 stage is predominant (often making up more than 50 percent of a night’s sleep), normal, and an important aspect of sleep physiology, containing sleep spindles and K-complexes." In other words, Apple thought we might assume that "light" sleep is less important than "deep" sleep, so it chose a new, important-sounding name to use in place of "light."

A chart on the same page lays it out: non-REM stages 1 and 2 fall under the Apple category of “core” sleep, while stage 3 is “deep” sleep. That’s how Apple defined it in testing: If an EEG said a person was in stage 2 when the watch said they were in “core,” that was counted as a success for the algorithm.

What are the known sleep stages, and where does core sleep fit in?

Let’s back up to consider what was known about sleep stages before Apple started renaming them. The current scientific understanding, which is based on brain wave patterns that can be read with an EEG, includes these stages: 

Non-REM stage 1 (N1) 

N1 only lasts a few minutes. You’re breathing normally. Your body is beginning to relax, and your brain waves start to look different than they do when you’re awake. This would be considered part of your “light” sleep. The Apple Watch considers this to be part of your core sleep stage.

Non-REM stage 2 (N2)

Also usually considered “light” sleep, N2 makes up about half of your sleep time. This stage includes spikes of brain activity called sleep spindles, and distinctive brainwave patterns called K complexes. (These are what the Apple document mentioned above.) This stage of sleep is thought to be when we consolidate our memories. Fun fact: if you grind your teeth in your sleep, it will mostly be in this stage. This stage makes up most of what Apple reports as your core sleep.

Non-REM stage 3 (N3) 

N3 is often called “deep” sleep, and this stage accounts for about a quarter of your night. It has the slowest brain waves, so it’s sometimes called “slow wave sleep.” It’s hard to wake someone up from this stage, and if you succeed, they’ll be groggy for a little while afterward. This is the stage where the most body repair tends to happen, including muscle recovery, bone growth in children, and immune system strengthening. As we age, we spend less time in N3 and more time in N2.

(There was an older classification that split off the deepest sleep into its own stage, calling it non-REM stage 4, but currently that deepest portion is just considered part of stage 3.) 

REM sleep

REM sleep is so named because this is where we have Rapid Eye Movement. Your body is temporarily paralyzed, except for the eyes and your breathing muscles. This is the stage best known for dreaming (although dreams can occur in other stages as well).

The brain waves of a person in REM sleep look very similar to those of a person who is awake, which is why some sleep-tracking apps show blocks of REM as occurring near the top of the graph, near wakefulness. We don’t usually enter REM sleep until we’ve been through the other stages, and we cycle through these stages all night. Usually REM sleep is fairly short during the beginning of the night, and gets longer with each cycle. 

How much core sleep do I need?

Using Apple's definition, in which core sleep is the same as light sleep, it's normal for almost half of your sleep to be core sleep. Sleep scientists give an approximate breakdown (although the exact numbers may vary from person to person, and your needs aren't always the same every night):

  • N1 (very light sleep): About 5% of the total (just a few minutes)

  • N2 (light or "core" sleep): About 45%, so just under four hours if you normally sleep for eight hours

  • N3 (deep sleep): About 25%, so about two hours if you normally sleep for eight hours

  • REM: About 25%, so also about two hours.

How to get more core sleep

If your Apple watch says you're getting less core sleep than what I mentioned above, you might wonder how you can get more core (or light) sleep. Before you take any action, though, you should know that wearables aren't very good at knowing exactly what stage of sleep you are in. They're usually (but not always!) pretty good at telling when you are asleep versus awake, so they can be useful for knowing whether you slept six hours or eight. But I wouldn't make any changes to my routine based on the specific sleep stage numbers. The algorithm can easily miscategorize some of your light sleep as deep sleep, or vice versa.

That said, the best way to get more core sleep is to get more and better sleep in general. Start with this basic sleep hygiene checklist. Among the most important items:

  • Give yourself a bedtime routine with at least 30 minutes of wind-down time where you try to do something relaxing.

  • Have a consistent wake-up time.

  • Don't look at screens right before bed.

  • Keep your bedroom dark and cool.

  • Don't have alcohol or caffeine in the evenings.

Improving your sleep overall will improve all your sleep stages, whether your Apple Watch can tell them apart or not.

Other ways people use the term “core sleep”

I really wish Apple had chosen another term, because the phrase “core sleep” has been used in other ways. It either doesn’t refer to a sleep stage at all, or if it is associated with sleep stages, it’s used to refer to deep sleep stages. 

In the 1980s, sleep scientist James Horne proposed that your first few sleep cycles (taking up maybe the first five hours of the night) constitute the “core” sleep we all need to function. The rest of the night is “optional” sleep, which ideally we’d still get every night, but it’s not a big deal to miss out from time to time. He described this idea in a 1988 book called Why We Sleep (no relation to the 2017 book by another author) but you can see his earlier paper on the topic here. He uses the terms “obligatory” and “facultative” sleep in that paper, and switched to the core/optional terminology later. 

You’ll also find people using the phrase “core sleep” to refer to everything but light sleep. For example, this paper on how sleep changes as we age compares their findings in terms of sleep stages with Horne’s definition of core sleep. In doing so, they describe core sleep as mainly consisting of deep sleep stages N3-N4 (in other words, N3 as described above).

From there, somehow the internet has gotten the idea that N3 and REM are considered “core” sleep. I don’t know how that happened, and I don’t see it when I search the scientific literature. I have seen it on “what is core sleep?” junk articles on the websites of companies selling weighted blankets and melatonin gummies. Google's AI overview, for its part, mishmashes all these definitions to come up with something that is, currently, completely nonsensical. But who knows, that may have changed by the time you read this article.

For one final, contradictory definition, the phrase “core sleep” is also used by people who are into polyphasic sleep. This is the idea that you can replace a full night’s sleep with several naps during the day, something that biohacker types keep trying to make happen, even though it never pans out. They use the term pretty straightforwardly: If you have a nighttime nap that is longer than your other naps, that’s your “core sleep.” Honestly, that’s a fair use of the word. I'll allow it.

So, to wrap up: Core sleep, if you’re a napper, is the longest block of sleep you get during a day. Core sleep, to scientists who study sleep deprivation, is a hypothesis about which part of a night’s sleep is the most important. But if you’re just here because you were wondering what Apple Health or your Apple Watch's sleep app means by "core sleep," it means stages N1-N2, or light sleep.



mercredi 22 avril 2026

You Can Get These New Sony Noise-Canceling Earbuds on Sale for $65 Right Now

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Sony’s WF-C710N earbuds are on sale for just $64.99 on StackSocial right now. They're open-box models—they may arrive in repackaged materials with minor handling marks, but they’re verified to be in new condition and include a one-year third-party warranty—marked down at 50% off their full price. These are part of Sony’s newer lineup, and they focus on everyday usability rather than competing with flagship earbuds.

The Sony WF-C710N earbuds have active noise canceling with dual noise sensors, Bluetooth 5.3, and support for AAC and SBC codecs. Pairing is quick, especially with Android and Windows devices, and the multipoint connection lets you stay connected to two devices at once. In practice, that means you can switch between your phone and laptop without re-pairing every time. The listening experience is tuned for general use. The 5mm drivers lean toward a slightly bass-forward sound, but vocals stay clear enough for podcasts and calls. Sony also includes its DSEE processing, which helps improve compressed audio, so streaming tracks sound a bit fuller than they otherwise would.

Noise canceling works well for steady background sounds like traffic or fans, but it won’t completely block everything around you. When you do want to stay aware, there’s an ambient mode you can adjust, including one that focuses on voices so you can hear people without taking your earbuds out. These are built for daily wear, so comfort and convenience are a big part of the experience.

The earbuds are light, and the case is small enough to carry without a second thought. They’re also rated IPX4 for water resistance, so sweat and light splashes are not a concern. You also get around 8.5 hours of battery life with noise canceling on, and the case brings the total to roughly 30 hours (your mileage may vary depending on use). All things considered, the Sony WF-C710N earbuds are a great buy at 50% off right now.



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