10 Hacks Every Nintendo Switch (or Switch 2) Owner Should Know

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The Nintendo Switch and the Switch 2 are pretty user-friendly devices, but sometimes, that can be a bit more of a hindrance than a help. It's easy to jump right into a game, but if you want to toggle on a feature like dark mode or, say, even make a Mii, you have to jump through a lot of hoops in the settings menus.

That's a shame, because if you're willing to learn the ins-and-outs, there's a lot you can do on these systems, whichever version of the Switch you own. Over the past few years, I've spent more time playing around in the Switch ecosystem than anyone reasonably should, and along the way, I've picked up a handful of tips, tricks, and hacks that every Nintendo gamer would do well to learn.

Turn on dark mode on your Switch

Nintendo might like a bright and fun aesthetic, but if you're feeling a bit more sleek, both the original Nintendo Switch and Switch 2 have dark modes. On either system, you can turn this on by navigating to System Settings (the cog in the taskbar, which you can either tap or select with a controller), then scrolling down to Themes and selecting Basic Dark. This will turn your home screen and menu pages black, which could even save you some battery life if you have a Nintendo Switch OLED. (Note that games themselves will be unaffected.)

Remap the buttons on your Joy-Cons

Whether it's for accessibility or just personal preference, you can completely change what your buttons do on both the Nintendo Switch and Nintendo Switch 2, although how you'll do this differs across the two systems.

Remapping buttons on the original Nintendo Switch

On the original Switch, you'll need to go to System Settings > Controllers and Sensors > Change Button Mapping. From here, select a connected controller (you can remap both the Joy-Cons and the Nintendo Switch Pro Controller, as well as some third-party options) and start reassigning buttons to your heart's content. Make your B button into the right trigger. Make up go down. Go nuts!

Remapping buttons on the Nintendo Switch 2

On the Nintendo Switch 2, you can do the same thing, but it's under System Settings > Accessibility > Button Mapping. Here, you can remap the Joy-Con 2 controllers, a Nintendo Switch Pro or Pro 2 controller, and Joy-Con 2 that are connected via the charging grip. Some third-party controllers may also work.

But wait, there's more. Back on the Accessibility menu, you can also toggle on Button Mapping in Quick Settings, so you can edit your button mapping on the fly by holding down the physical Home button and selecting Edit Mapping.

Finally, the Switch 2 has some additional button customizations you can make under System Settings > Controllers & Accessories. Here, if you have the Nintendo Switch 2 Pro Controller or Joy-Con 2 charging grip, you can set what the extra GL/GR buttons do using GL/GR Button Settings. Or, if you scroll down a bit, you can also disable or enable Joy-Con 2 Mouse Controls, as well as set your sensitivity for them. Finally, if you're tired of Nintendo using a different A and B button placement from Xbox, you can select Swap A and B and enable the toggle on the following page. This will remap just those two buttons.

Use GameShare to share Switch games locally, and GameChat to share them online

Credit: Nintendo

There are two features in this one, both of which allow you to play multiplayer games with your friends with just one copy of the game you want to play.

Using GameShare

Let's start with GameShare. This is a Nintendo Switch 2 feature, but it impacts the original Switch as well. Essentially, GameShare allows Switch 2 owners to share copies of their games with Switch 2 and original Switch owners nearby, for local multiplayer play. If you ever used Nintendo DS Download Play, it's kind of like that, except it streams games from the host system instead.

It's convenient, but the catch is that GameShare is only available in certain titles (you can find a list of some compatible games here). How you'll access it also differs from game to game. For instance, in Super Mario Odyssey, GameShare is available when starting or resuming a two-player game, where you can start a session by selecting GameShare + Local Play.

You'll then have to wait for others to join your GameShare session, and then you can start playing by selecting Start from the on-screen menu. This part is the same across all GameShare-compatible titles, at least. To join a GameShare session that someone else has started, open your Switch or Switch 2 to the main menu, then select GameShare from the taskbar (the icon that looks like a TV receiving a wireless signal), and under Join GameShare, find your friend's session.

Note that even if a game is a Nintendo Switch 2 exclusive, original Switch systems may still be able to play it using GameShare. For instance, Donkey Kong Bananza supports GameShare.

Using GameChat

Now, let's talk about sharing games via GameChat. This is a lot like GameShare, but is exclusive to Nintendo Switch 2 systems and works online. It's also limited to certain games, and takes a bit more setup. To share a game using GameChat, you'll first need to be in a GameChat session with someone from your friend list, which you can start by pressing the physical C button on your controller or the C icon from the console's main menu. This will allow you to talk with each other over the internet, see each other's gameplay, and if you have cameras, even see feeds from them. Now, you can open your game and start sharing it with people in your chat through that game's menu. In Super Mario Odyssey, you'll also see the option for this when starting or resuming a two-player game. Whoever else is in your chat will then be able to start playing with you then and there, without having to join the session from a separate menu like in GameShare.

Note that GameChat is free for Nintendo Switch 2 owners until March 31, 2026, after which it will require a Nintendo Switch Online membership.

Archive Switch games you don't play to save storage space, or move them to a microSD card

Neither the original Switch or Switch 2 are especially generous with storage space, and downloading fancy AAA games can eat into it quickly. Luckily, on both of these consoles, you can quickly delete games from the internal storage or any inserted microSD cards to save space, while keeping them in your library and maintaining your save data.

Archiving games on the Original Nintendo Switch

On the original Switch, you can delete a game by hovering over it on the main menu or in your library, pressing the physical + button, and selecting Manage Software > Archive Software. Alternatively, you could select Delete Software instead, which will largely do the same thing, but will make redownloading the game a little more annoying, since it'll remove it from your home menu and you'll need to go to the eShop to do it.

To more quickly delete games, you can navigate to System Settings > Data Management > Quick Archive. From here, you can see how much space each game takes up and how much you'll save by getting rid of it. You can also delete stored screenshots and videos for games here, either by selecting a game in Quick Archive and pressing the physical X button, or selecting Manage Screenshots and Videos under Data Management. For more detailed control over your game deletion, you can also select Manage Software under Data Management instead, but Quick Archive is a bit snappier and has most of the same controls.

Archiving games on the Nintendo Switch 2

On the Switch 2, the steps are mostly the same as on the original Switch, except Deleting now does the same thing as Archiving by default (you can uncheck Keep HOME Menu Icon if you really don't want one), so the standalone Archive option has been removed. Regardless, neither console will delete your save date during these steps, as the size it takes up is usually pretty negligible. That said, if you really want to delete a game's save data, on either console, head over to System Settings > Data Management > Delete Save Data and pick it from the list.

To get a game back after deleting it, simply redownload it. If you kept your game's home menu icon, you can do this from either your main menu or your library. If you didn't, you'll need to navigate to that game's store page in the eShop to redownload it.

While you're in Data Management, you can also move games from the internal storage to a microSD card or back. This is under System Settings > Data Management > Move Data Between System / microSD Card. On Switch 2, the final step is called Move System / microSD Express Card Data instead, as that console requires a special type of microSD card.

Send your Switch gameplay screenshots to your phone

Like most modern consoles, the Switch and Switch 2 are both capable of capturing screenshots and video that you can later share online. Back before Twitter was named X and started charging for the API, it used to be easier to share directly from the console. Now, you'll probably need to share screenshots and videos from your console to the Nintendo app to send them to most social media sites.

Sending screenshots on the original Nintendo Switch

On the original Switch, you have to do this manually. First, go to your Album from the taskbar on the console's main menu (the icon that looks like a painting). Then, select a screenshot or video you want to send to the app and press the physical A button to bring up the Sharing and Editing menu. Select Send to Smartphone, and then choose Only This One to send just that photo or video to the app, or select Send a Batch to choose more.

Sending screenshots on the Nintendo Switch 2

On the Switch 2, you can upload screenshots and videos to the app automatically or manually.

To upload manually, once again select Album from the taskbar on the console's main menu. Then, to upload just a single item, select it, press the physical A button, and choose Upload to Smart Device. To batch upload, instead choose Quick Actions from the sidebar on the left, select Upload to Smart Device, and choose as many items as you'd like before continuing.

To upload automatically, open Album from the taskbar on the console's main menu, select Upload Settings from the sidebar on the left, and toggle on Automatic Uploads.

To see your uploads, open the Nintendo Switch App on your phone and tap the Album icon in the bottom-right corner. Then, simply download them to share them to your favorite social media site as usual. Note that uploaded items don't actually take up space on your phone, and are instead stored in Nintendo's servers. You can keep up to 100 files uploaded for 30 days each, and any new items over that limit will delete the oldest entries first. If this happens, your original screenshot or video will still remain on your console.

Transfer your Switch game data between systems

Credit: Michelle Ehrhardt

On both the original Switch and Switch 2, there are a number of ways to transfer save data between systems. This is especially helpful when upgrading from the original Switch to the Switch 2, although the easiest way to transfer data when upgrading is through a system transfer.

A system transfer is only available during Switch 2 setup, and will be available on the screen that says To Nintendo Switch Console Owners. For the easiest experience, select Begin System Transfer on this page and ensure your original Switch and Switch 2 are near each other. You'll be able to transfer over your games and saves, while keeping your games installed on your original console (specific games might need to be deleted to be transferred, but the console will warn you about this, and you can get them back later). If you absolutely need to, you can also perform a system transfer without your original Switch present, but it's not advised, as it will factory reset that device. Note that you'll also need to do some setup on your original Switch in-person first, so if you already have your Switch 1 and Switch 2 in-hand, you might as well go with the more straightforward option above.

If a system transfer isn't an option, you can also transfer games and save data over on a case-by-case basis. This can be useful if you still plan to play on your original Switch every once in a while, too. To transfer physical games, simply remove them from one console and place them in another. To transfer digital games, select the Virtual Game Cards icon on either your Switch or Switch 2's main menu (the icon that looks like a game card), then choose a game and select Load on Other System to send it to another system on your account. You can move a virtual game card between systems as often as you'd like.

To transfer save data, on either the Switch or Switch 2, navigate to System Settings > Data Management > Transfer Your Save Data. You'll be able to send it to another nearby console for free from this menu, but to send save data online, you'll need a Nintendo Switch Online membership. If that's not an issue, you can manage your cloud save data under System Settings > Data Management > Save Data Cloud. Or, if a game already has save data in the cloud, you can download it simply by hovering over its icon, pressing the physical + button, and selecting the data under Save Data Cloud.

Make Miis on the Nintendo Switch

Miis did not die with the Nintendo Wii! You can still create one on both the Nintendo Switch and Switch 2, and it's as simple as navigating to System Settings > Mii > Create/Edit a Mii. On the original Switch, this will take you right to the Mii creation menu, but on the Switch 2, you'll also be able to choose if you want to start from a preset or get a Mii based on an amiibo instead. Either way, make your choice, and you'll also be taken to the familiar Mii creation menu.

From here, customizing your Mii is pretty much identical to how it worked on the Wii, except you can now choose any hair color you'd like.

As for why you'd want a Mii when they don't show up in the main menu at all, aside from making one being fun in and of itself, some games will be able to put your Miis to use. For instance, Super Smash Bros. Ultimate can let you fight as your Mii.

Keep your friends from seeing when you're online on your Switch

Sometimes, you want to game without others knowing what you're up to. You can do this on both the original Switch and the Switch 2.

On either the Switch or Switch 2, from the main menu, select your profile icon in the top left corner. Then, in the sidebar on the left, scroll down to User Settings. From here, scroll to Friend Settings, under Friend Functions. Then, on the Switch 1, select No One under Display online status to:. On the Switch 2, Display online Status to: will instead say Online-Status Display, but changing this to No One will do the same thing.

This will hide your online status from your Friends List, but your friends will still be able to see your recently played games. To stop them from seeing this, on either console, back out from Friend Settings and scroll up to Play Activity Settings (under your profile icon > User Settings > Profile Settings). In the first option on this screen, which again has different names depending on which console you're on, select No One.

Make the most of mouse mode on the Switch 2 (including using a USB-C mouse)

Credit: Michelle Ehrhardt

One of the coolest additions to the Nintendo Switch 2 is mouse controls, which allow you to remove a Joy-Con 2 controller and use it on its side like a mouse. Usually, you'll only use one controller at a time this way, but some games might actually want you to use both Joy-Con 2 as mice at once. Mouse controls let you navigate around the main menu like a PC, and in certain games, will even open up new modes of play. For instance, Cyberpunk 2077 lets you use mouse controls to aim like you're playing a first-person shooter on PC.

That's all pretty self-explanatory, but did you know that you can also plug in a USB-C mouse to play with instead? Not every mouse will work in every game, but if the Joy-Con 2 on its side isn't comfortable enough for you, it's worth trying out the mice you have laying around. Alternatively, you could get a mouse shell to place the Joy-Con 2 into, for more grip.

Finally, it's worth noting that some games on the original Switch also support mouse controls, although the selection is more limited than on Switch 2, and you won't be able to use a Joy-Con as a mouse. Instead, you'll have to plug in a USB-C mouse.

Ping your lost Switch controllers

Want to game, but your Joy-Con, Joy-Con 2, or Pro Controller is trapped underneath a couch cushion somewhere? The Switch or Switch 2 can make them vibrate to help you find them. From the main menu, select Controllers from the taskbar (the icon that looks like a Joy-Con). Then, select the second option from the top, called Find Controllers on the original Switch and Search for Controllers on the Switch 2. Select a connected controller to make it vibrate.

10 Hacks Every Safari User Should Know

If you're the kind of person who only uses Safari to download Chrome, you need to think again. For a Mac user, Safari might be the best browser there is (yes, even better than Chrome). It's fast, secure, doesn't buckle under most loads, sips RAM instead of munching through it, and it'll help your battery last longer as well. And yes, there are even extensions and ad blockers that work natively in Safari.

It's time to take another look at Safari, and use all its hidden features and smarts to make your browsing better.

Blast away ads and other distracting items

Credit: Khamosh Pathak

When this feature came out, it became a bit of a meme on TikTok. In case you haven't heard, Safari has a new Hide Distracting Items feature that can zap pretty much anything on a webpage out of existence. You'll find in the page options menu (the - icon to the left of the address bar). After activating it, try clicking on a popup menu, autoplaying video, newsletter box or pretty much anything else. It'll be banished from your screen, and there will even be a little animation showing it disappearing like it's just been snapped by Thanos. And Safari will remember your snap, so it won't show up the next time you visit that site on your Mac, or even your iPhone or iPad. And if you're feeling more like Iron Man, yes, you can cancel your snaps.

Give Safari a decent ad blocker

Credit: Justin Pot

For ad blocking, Firefox and Chrome have the uBlock Origin extension. Then there are browsers like Brave and Opera, which come with ad-blocking built-in. Safari has always suffered in this regard. There was never really a true alternative to uBlock available for Safari. There is a version of uBlock Origin for Safari, but it doesn't use Safari's own framework for ad-blocking, so it suffers when it comes to performance and blocking capabilities.

But now it seems like there's finally a decent alternative, called wBlock. I've been using it ever since my colleague, Justin Pot, wrote about it, and I am happy to say that it finally makes Safari's ad-blocking experience on par with some of the bigger browsers. And the best part? wBlock is free and open-source.

Embrace tab groups and the sidebar

Credit: Khamosh Pathak

Before development was suspended, I loved the Arc browser. But ever since the company shut it down, I have become jaded, and I haven't really started using alternatives like the Zen Browser. The biggest features I miss from Arc are the workspaces and vertical tabs. But now, Safari has those too. In Safari, you can now create Tab Groups, which can contain as many tabs as you want. I use these as my workspaces. One group for reading long articles, another for travel research, and so on.

And while I'm in a tab group, I also like to do it with the sidebar open (click the Sidebar button next to the Back and Forward buttons), which gives me a vertical-tabs experience similar to Arc's. It isn't exactly like Arc, because the horizontal tab bar up top doesn't disappear. But having a vertical list of tabs still helps. So does the fact that Tab Groups sync with my iPhone and iPad, so I can pick up my research there as well.

To create a new tab group, click the New Tab Group button at the top of the sidebar. Or you can select multiple tabs, right-click, and choose the Move to Tab Group > New Tab Group option. On the iPhone, open the tab switcher, tap the Menu button from the top, and choose New Empty Tab Group to get started.

Master Safari's new design for iPhone

Credit: Khamosh Pathak

Safari was one of the few apps that saw a major design update in iOS 26, with a redesigned bottom bar. Lifehacker has a detailed guide on all the new hidden gestures and features in Safari's iOS 26 redesign, but I'll highlight some of my favorites here.

• Swipe to switch tabs: To quickly switch between tabs, just swipe left or right on the address bar.

• Press and hold the address bar: A lot is hidden here. You can copy a link, paste from your clipboard, switch to another tab group, close tabs, or close all tabs.

• Swipe up on the address bar: Swipe up on the address bar to reveal all open tabs. From here, you can swipe left or right to switch between tab groups. From the top menu, you can copy links for all open tabs with ease.

• Pin tabs: Tap and hold a website from the tabs screen, and choose the Pin Tab option to pin the website to the top of your browser.

Bring back the iPhone's old tab bar

Credit: Khamosh Pathak

If you don't like the iPhone's new compact tab bar or its gestures, you can still go back to the way things used to be. Go to Settings > Apps > Safari > Tabs. Switch to the Bottom option to bring back the expanded bottom toolbar, or to go further back in time, go with the Top option.

Lead separate browsing lives using Profiles

Credit: Khamosh Pathak

It's not as obvious as in Chrome, but Safari also has profiles that sync between iPhone, iPad, and Mac. You can use Profiles to keep your work and personal lives separate. This can also be useful if you and your spouse use the same Mac.

Profiles will fully separate your browsing from other users, including logins, cookies, browsing history, tab groups, favorites, and even extensions.

To set one up for Safari on Mac, go to Settings > Profiles. On the iPhone, go to Settings > Apps > Safari > Profiles and tap New Profile. Give it a name, and make sure to pick an icon and color. This will tint the background of the start page, so it'll find it easier to know which profile you're in.

Turn your favorite sites into apps

Credit: Khamosh Pathak

On Mac, you can use Safari to turn any frequently used website into an app of its own. It will show up in the Dock and the app-switcher. It's still the same website, but it will have its own shortcut on your Mac's interface, making it easier to use. If you use your Mac for retail, or any kind of specialized work that happens via a website, this can be really handy.

To do this, visit a website, click the Share button, and click Add to Dock. Your logins will sync automatically, and so will your extensions. The toolbar will be colored based on the website colors as well.

You can also do this on iPhone, by navigating to a site, tapping the Share button, tapping More, and tapping Add to Home Screen. The website's logo will show up as an "app" on your home screen, and it'll act as a shortcut to the site.

Automatically close open tabs

Credit: Khamosh Pathak

I love opening tabs, but I hate closing them. That means it's easy for me to hit the 500 tab limit in Safari. So I enabled the option that automatically closes tabs that are older than 30 days. You can do this by going to Settings > Apps > Safari > Close Tabs. You can choose between one day, one week, or one month.

Listen to a page out loud

Credit: Khamosh Pathak

You might be familiar with Safari's Reader Mode, which is perhaps the best in the business. But there's another feature hidden in the Page Settings option. Tap the Listen to Page button, and Safari will instantly start reading the site you're on out loud. Before doing this, though, I would recommend you switch to Reader Mode first, so the text-to-speech doesn't get caught on ads or other distractions.

Customize or change the Safari start page

Credit: Khamosh Pathak

Every time you open Safari, or a new tab, you see the browser's default start page. Let's take some time to customize just how it looks and works. First, open the start page, then click the Edit button in the bottom-right corner to enable or disable which sections you want to see. I suggest adding sections for your Favorites, Reading List, iCloud Tabs, and Recently Closed Tabs. You can also change the background to any color that you like.

If you don't like an overloaded start page, you can also try out the Bonjourr Safari extension. It's a start-page replacement that I've used for months now. It automatically cycles between serene backgrounds while showing the time and weather. You can add quick shortcuts for your frequently visited sites, too. It's also fully customizable, and looks great on iPhone as well as Mac.

These Sweat-Proof JBL Earbuds Are 25% Off Right Now

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The JBL Endurance Race 2 is built with a specific user in mind, and it does not pretend otherwise. These are sports earbuds first, and that focus shows in the design and the trade-offs. Right now, they’re $59.95 on Amazon, down from $89.95, which makes them easier to consider if you want something tough without paying premium prices.

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The earbuds themselves are large and stick out more than most, but the silicone wing design works. You twist them into place, and they lock in. During runs, strength training, and high-sweat workouts, they stay put in a way many smaller earbuds do not. If fit security has been your frustration with workout earbuds, this alone may be enough to justify a look.

The earbuds carry an IP68 rating, which means they’re dustproof and can handle heavy sweat and rain without concern. They are not designed for swimming, but they are tougher than almost anything else near this price. The charging case is less impressive. It’s light at about 1.4 ounces but bulky, and the IPX2 rating means it’s fine inside a gym bag but not something you want exposed to bad weather.

Battery life, however, is a strong point. You get up to 12 hours with noise cancelling off, around 10 hours with it on, and up to 48 hours total with the case. That’s enough for a full week of workouts without needing to think about charging.

These aren’t high-end earbuds, and it shows in the lack of crispness in higher frequencies. Bass is solid and punchy enough for workout playlists, but detail takes a backseat. As for its ANC, it works fine indoors, like in a gym or while commuting, but it reportedly doesn’t hold up well outside, where traffic and footfalls still break through. Ambient mode also falls short. It doesn’t let in enough sound for confidence near busy roads, and wind noise can become distracting. Controls are touch-based and can be customized in the app, but they don’t always respond well to sweaty fingers or gloves.

These earbuds are not for people chasing refined sound or top-tier noise cancelling. They are for people who want a secure fit, long battery life, and gear that can take a beating.

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10 Hacks Every Steam Deck Owner Should Know

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Valve's Steam Deck revolutionized PC gaming when it came out in 2022, popularizing the handheld gaming PC format. In 2026, it's still got a great performance-to-price ratio, and is plenty relevant compared to more expensive and more finicky alternatives like the Asus Rog Xbox Ally X. But that doesn't mean it's fully stacked right out of the box. SteamOS presents a more intuitive pick-up-and-play experience than I've used on any other handheld gaming PC (or gaming PC in general, to be honest), but there are plenty of hacks and customizations you can use to make it truly yours.

Steam Deck's desktop mode basically turns it into a mini PC

This one's simple, but vastly increases what you can do with your Steam Deck. Yes, the Steam Deck's biggest strength is that you can easily hop into games right from the home screen using the built-in controls, but did you know that you can also use it like a more traditional desktop?

To swap the device over to its built-in desktop mode, press the Steam button (the one on the device itself), then select Power. From there, select Switch to Desktop.

Bam, you'll be taken right to a more traditional PC interface, and one that will look extra familiar to you if you've ever used Linux, the base operating system SteamOS is built on.

You'll need desktop mode to enable a lot of the other hacks on this list, but it's also great on its own. With it, you can install your favorite Linux productivity apps, or even just browse the web using Microsoft Edge, which comes pre-installed (you can install your browser of choice later). You can use the right trackpad, the thumbsticks, or the touchscreen to move the mouse cursor, and press Steam + X to bring up a keyboard, but you can also plug in an external accessory or dock using the USB-C port on top of the device, too. Play this right, and you can basically turn the Steam Deck into a full-fledged Mini PC, complete with a built-in screen.

To leave desktop mode and re-enter the Steam Deck's default interface, click on the Return to Gaming mode icon in your desktop's top left corner.

You can play games that aren't from Steam

By default, the Steam Deck will show you games from your Steam Library, and that's where the Store page will take you, too. That makes sense—Valve wants you to buy games from its store. But because the Steam Deck is essentially just a highly specialized mini PC, it won't stop you from playing games from other PC gaming stores.

There are a few ways to do this, but by far, the most convenient one is Heroic Launcher. This allows you to install games from your Epic Game Store, Amazon, and GOG libraries by picking them from a handy, scrollable list.

Installing Heroic Game Launcher is easy. First, go to desktop mode, then click on the Discover store, which is the little shopping bag icon to the left of the folder icon. Search for Heroic, and install the app called Heroic (it'll likely be the first entry, and will have an icon that looks like a shield with a sword in it).

Once it's installed, open it, either by clicking the shortcut on your desktop or by searching for it using SteamOS' version of the classic Windows Start menu (it'll be to the far left of your taskbar, and will look like the Steam Deck logo).

From here, log into your various alternative game launcher accounts using the Log in button in the top left corner. After that, you could simply install your games and stop here, navigating to desktop mode and opening Heroic Launcher every time you want to play them. But let's go one step further, so you can access them right from gaming mode (the Steam Deck's default interface).

First, let's try installing a game of your choice from the Library tab, to get used to the process. Select the game you want to install, then click Install. You may see the option to change the Install Path or change the "Wine" settings. The latter can help with compatibility, but you likely won't need to mess with these. You may need to allow a C++ install to actually run certain games, but you can simply click "Install" on the pop-up that shows up when you try running these games to do this.

Once your game is installed, click the three-dot menu in the top right corner and select Add to Steam. This will add the game to your Steam library, so you can open it right from the handheld's gaming mode.

You could also stop here, just adding games to Steam on a case-by-case basis. But for ultimate convenience, you can add Heroic Launcher itself to the Steam Deck's gaming mode, to make accessing games in it easier. To do this, click the Steam shortcut on your desktop (or open it from the "Start" menu). From here, click the Add a game button in the bottom left corner, next to the plus sign. Click Add a Non-Steam Game, and in the list that pops up, find and click on Heroic Game Launcher. Click Add Selected Programs.

With this, you'll be able to access Heroic Game Launcher from within gaming mode by navigating to Library > Non-Steam. This is also where any games you've added to Steam from Heroic Game Launcher will show up, and you can use these same steps to add and view other third-party apps within Steam too, even mainstays like Google Chrome. You'll notice that the art for these might be a little barren. There are a few ways to fix this, but I'll touch on my favorite below.

Install plugins to customize your experience

By default, SteamOS is pretty snappy and easy to navigate, but fans have taken it upon themselves to make various plugins to help you customize it further. You'll find these in a program called Decky Loader.

Unlike Heroic Launcher, Decky Loader needs to be installed from a browser. Enter desktop mode, open your browser of choice (Edge is the default), then navigate to decky.xyz. From here, click Download in the top-right corner. Find the install file, either from your browser or the Steam Deck's File Manager (the folder icon in the taskbar) under Downloads. Double click on it, and then proceed with the installation. For the most stable experience, choose the recommended install option.

Now, to actually use Decky Loader, go back to gaming mode and press the physical three-dot button on your Steam Deck (I'll refer to that as the "quick settings button" for the rest of this article). Scroll down to the Decky Loader menu, which looks like a plug. Here's where you can start toying with your plugins.

You've got a number of options here, so let's navigate through where to find plugins and what some of my favorites are. First, select the icon that looks like a market stall (in the top-right corner), and from here, you'll see all available plugins.

By default, these will be arranged alphabetically, but I have the best luck by navigating to "Sort" and selecting "Most Downloaded First." This will put the most popular plugins up top. Some of my favorites include CSS Loader, which allows you to change your Steam Deck's look and theme, and Animation Changer, which allows you to change what animations your Steam Deck plays when it boots or suspends. Download whatever strikes your fancy, and access them through the plug menu when pressing the quick settings button.

Note that, sometimes, installing a new Steam Deck system update might break your plugins. To fix them, navigate to the plug menu and click the cog in the top-right corner, then select "Plugins" and reinstall the ones that have updates. You might also need to update Decky Loader itself, in the General menu on the same page. And if you're not seeing the plug menu, you'll need to exit back out to desktop, reinstall Decky Loader using the install file you grabbed earlier, and restart.

Let's close with an example, and an answer for how to get artwork for your Non-Steam games. In the Decky store, grab the SteamGridDB plugin. Now, with it installed, go to any of your installed Steam games and click the Start button (the three horizontal lines above the right thumbstick). From the menu that pops up, select Change Artwork. You'll see a number of community-made options that will change how the game's various icons and posters will show up across your Steam Deck. This will work with almost any game in your library—most have art uploaded to the database this plug-in pulls from—and some non-game programs, too. Most importantly, it will allow you to easily add art to games that don't have it by default, like Non-Steam games.

Get yourself a dock

The Steam Deck might be a handheld, but that doesn't mean you can't use it like a regular desktop pc, too. I've already covered how to access desktop mode on the Steam Deck, but if you want to go the extra mile and use it on the big screen, you'll probably want a dock.

You've got a few options for this. I use the unofficial JSAUX dock, mostly because I bought mine before the official Steam Deck dock came out. For firmware support from Valve, you're going to want the more expensive official Steam Deck dock, but this will merely increase stability—it's not required.

Credit: Valve

Whatever you pick, you'll just want to ensure it has either a DisplayPort or HDMI 2.1 connection (ensure your TV or monitor supports these, too), since those will support high resolutions and fast refresh rates. A built-in ethernet port is also nice, so you can have a wired internet connection, as are extra USB ports.

With a dock, you'll be able to connect your Steam Deck to a big screen using the USB-C port at the top and the appropriate HDMI or DisplayPort cables for your dock. You'll also be able to connect as many accessories as your dock will allow. And some docks come with handy bonuses. For instance, storage company Sabrent sells a Steam Deck dock with room for an M.2 SSD, for expanded external storage. JSAUX sells one too, although I can't speak to it, since it's not the model I have.

Once you have your dock and it's all set up, just turn on your Steam Deck and set your TV or monitor to the right input, and you should able to play on the big screen, just like with a standard PC. Note that, depending on your screen's resolution, you might want to take advantage of manually setting per-game screen resolutions (available in the cog menu after selecting any game, under General > Game Resolution), as some games might need to be set to a lower resolution to run at full speed if connected to a 4K TV. Or, you could set a global max resolution for games by pressing the Steam button and navigating to Settings > Display > Advanced > Maximum Game Resolution.

You can also take advantage of the Steam Deck's built-in FSR upscaling to help make games look better when running at lower resolutions, by pressing the quick settings button, selecting the lightning bolt icon (this will take you to the Steam Deck's performance settings), and scrolling down to Scaling Filter. Select Sharp to start upscaling the way I usually do, but there are other filters and modes for you to play with to find the right settings for you, too.

Make emulating games from older systems easy

Aside from playing PC games, you can also use the Steam Deck to emulate games from older systems, too. While you could install emulators yourself (programs that are legal, as long as they don't come with copyrighted software), industrious fans have created a tool to make installing all the emulators you could possibly need on your Steam Deck way simpler.

It's called Emudeck, and installing it as as simple as going to desktop mode, opening a browser to emudeck.com, clicking the Download button in the top-right corner, selecting steamOS, and running the install file from either your browser or the Downloads tab in the File Manager.

Honestly, there are a lot of install options you can select here—too many to list. If you're new to emulation, I suggest selecting Easy Mode, which will get you set up with EmuDeck's recommended settings. These should work for most people, but if you want to customize things like aspect ratios, filters, and which emulators you install, choose Custom Mode.

Go through the install process, and then to find your emulators, either open Emulation Station (or the alternative frontend you installed using Custom Mode) in gaming mode under Library > Non-Steam Games, or Steam ROM Manager by opening it in the "Start" menu.

As for actually getting games onto your device, you're generally on your own there: It relies on your collection of retro games and methods for getting files from it. However, many of the same steps outlined in this article will apply.

Make the Steam Deck's fan quieter

If your Steam Deck's fan is too loud, you don't have to just accept it. You've actually got multiple steps to control it, including one easy official toggle and one more advanced fan-made option.

Let's start with the official toggle. If your fan is too loud, press the Steam button on your device, then select System and scroll all the way down until you see Enable updated fan control. Toggle that on to make your fan quieter, but note that doing so could reduce performance, as your system won't handle heat as well (if this is already toggled, you can actually toggle it off to gain a potential performance boost).

Credit: NGnius

For more detailed control, install Decky Loader using the "Install plugins" hack on this list. Then, install the Fantastic plugin. This will allow you to set a custom fan curve for your Steam Deck, which will change the fan speed based on your Steam Deck's current temperature. Simply open the plug-in and tap on the curve under the FAN menu to adjust it to your liking.

Adjust the power draw for better battery life

Not every game needs your Steam Deck's full power. If you're playing a more lightweight title, considering lowering your Steam Deck's performance to save some battery life.

To do this, press the quick settings button and select the lighting bolt icon to access the performance menu. From here, you can adjust the TDP Limit to lower how much power your Steam Deck is allowed to use. By default, it's set to 15 Watts, but on some lightweight games, I've been able to get away with 8 watts or less. Play around to find the right power-to-performance balance for you, depending on your game.

While you're here, you can also set a Manual GPU Clock, which will lower your GPU's performance, and could also help you gain more battery life. Similarly, you can set your screen's refresh rate, which will reduce how many frame your system will be able to display per second, but could similarly extend your playtime.

Get a Steam Deck for cheap

Ever since Valve discontinued the Steam Deck LCD, the base price for the Steam Deck has been $550. Not bad for an OLED screen and all this device can do, but much more expensive than the former $400 starting price.

However, Valve will sometimes drop new batches of "certified refurbished" Steam Decks on its store page. These can go for as low as $279, and while these drops are rare, it's a hefty discount if you can find it.

Valve is your best bet to get a refurbished Steam Deck without any issues, but if you absolutely need one and can't wait for the next drop, you can try a third-party program. GameStop also sells its own refurbished Steam Decks, although at time of writing, stock is also low there.

Refurbished Steam Decks are probably worth keeping an eye out for, but don't plan on getting one if you really want a Steam Deck now.

Get Steam beta updates

Valve is constantly iterating SteamOS, but it can take a while for new features to reach the general public. If you can't wait to get the next big SteamOS update, though, you can easily sign up for beta features. To do so, press the Steam button, then navigate to Settings > System > Beta Participation. From here, join either the Beta or Preview update channels.

These will let you get new SteamOS features more quickly, although they can introduce instability. Still, if you're fine with tinkering, this will let you get your hands on features like display-off downloads more quickly.

Make your Steam Deck more colorful

Credit: Michelle Ehrhardt

Finally, let's make that screen look a little more vibrant. This can be especially helpful if you're like me, and you have one of those discontinued LCD Steam Decks.

This used to be limited to a fan-made plugin, but Valve has now added official support for adjusting your Steam Deck's color settings. To access this, press the Steam button, and navigate to Settings > Display. From here, click Adjust Display Colors. You'll be taken to a menu where you can adjust the device's color temperature and vibrance, and see the results on a demo image right up top.

This Phishing Scam Comes From a Real Microsoft Email Address

As scammers continue to find ways to impersonate known brands, users should remain wary of spam-like emails—even if they appear to come from a legitimate company address.

Ars Technica has identified a scheme that abuses a Microsoft subscription feature to send phishing emails from no-reply-powerbi@microsoft.com, a real address that the company advises users to add to their allow lists.

How the Microsoft Power BI scam works

Users targeted with this scam have received emails from an address connected to Microsoft Power BI, a business analytics platform. The messages include (fake) billing receipts with large purchase amounts from services like PayPal, Norton LifeLock, and Microsoft 365 and a phone number to call to dispute the transaction.

Scammers on the other end of the line may try to convince you to install a remote access application that allows device takeover or will otherwise extract personal information. As with any phishing scam, engaging in any way—calling the number, responding to the email, or clicking links—could put your data and your device at risk.

The emails themselves are full of typos and grammar errors and urgent calls to action that are, in most cases, completely unrelated to Microsoft itself. Many users would spot these red flags and know to simply delete the message. However, threat actors capitalize on the trust users have in the brands they're exploiting along with scare tactics to trap some people in the scheme.

This is also far from the first phishing scheme of its kind: Threat actors have sent malicious emails from legitimate PayPal and Google addresses (to name just two) by exploiting similar loopholes. In the case of PayPal, fraudulent purchase notifications sent from service[at]paypal[dot]com abused the platform's subscription billing feature. With Google, scammers registered google.com subdomains via Google Sites and linked them with Google Accounts.

The Difference Between TikTok’s ‘Soft Cardio’ Trend and True Cardio

If you've been scrolling through your fitness algorithm lately, you might see content creators in their "soft cardio" era. This trend sounds a lot like last year's "cozy cardio," although the way I see it used is slightly different. Where "cozy" cardio is a little more about tricking yourself into working out by establishing a comfortable, maybe even luxurious ambience, "soft" cardio has a greater emphasis on the "low effort" of it all. Whatever the wording, this type of workout is simply the latest iteration of bigger trend toward low-effort cardio, promising all the benefits of exercise without the sweat, strain, or stress. But here's the thing: While soft cardio might be great for getting you off the couch, it's not quite delivering what traditional cardio does.

Let's be clear: I'm not here to bash soft cardio. Movement is movement, and anything that gets people more active is a win in my book. But if you're hoping to reap the cardiovascular benefits that come with actual cardio exercise, we need to have an honest conversation about what soft cardio can—and can't—do for your body.

What is soft cardio?

Soft cardio is essentially low-intensity exercise performed at a relaxed, comfortable pace. Think leisurely walks, gentle dancing in your living room, slow cycling, or easy stretching routines. The emphasis is on making movement feel enjoyable and stress-free rather than challenging or demanding. Naturally, this should resonate with people who feel intimidated by traditional exercise, or who are recovering from injury, or who simply want to incorporate more gentle movement into their daily routines. These are all valid reasons to embrace this type of activity. Soft cardio designed to spare your body from repetitive impact and intense exertion, which sounds wonderful—and in many ways, it is.

What makes cardio, well, cardio?

“Cardio” may not have a precise definition, but just looking at the name, it's safe to say it usually refers to the realm of cardiovascular exercise. That means it's supposed to challenge your heart and lungs, elevating your heart rate to a level where your cardiovascular system actually has to work harder than usual. This is what creates the adaptations that improve your heart health, increase your endurance, and boost your overall fitness.

If your soft cardio session doesn't meaningfully elevate your heart rate—if you could easily hold a conversation throughout without any change in breathing at all—then your cardiovascular system isn't being challenged enough to create those training adaptations. You're moving, which is great, but you're not getting the cardiovascular conditioning that comes with true cardio exercise.

Soft cardio versus actual cardio

Here are some examples of soft, cozy, or low-impact cardio:

• A 30-minute stroll through the neighborhood at a comfortable pace

• Gentle yoga or stretching routines

• Slow dancing or swaying to music

• Easy cycling on flat terrain where you never feel breathless

• Light household chores done at a relaxed pace

All of these movements reduce sedentary time, are gentle on joints, have a low barrier to entry, are sustainable for many people, and would probably improve your mood. Soft cardio has it's place, but it's minimal cardiovascular conditioning, with limited calorie burn, and it won't significantly improve aerobic capacity.

Here are some examples of what it might look like to tip into actual cardio:

• Brisk walking where your breathing becomes noticeably heavier

• Jogging or running at any pace

• Swimming laps with sustained effort

• Cycling at a pace that makes conversation difficult

• Dance cardio classes with energetic movement

• Jump rope, rowing, or elliptical training

These examples could strengthen your cardiovascular system, improve aerobic capacity, increase calorie burn, reduce risk of heart disease, and overall enhance endurance. Of course, this comes with higher impact on joints, more effort and motivation, and can feel intimidating for beginners.

Finding a balance between soft cardio and regular cardio

The good news is that you don't have to choose between soft cardio and real cardio—you can incorporate both into your routine based on your goals and current fitness level. If your primary goal is simply to move more and sit less, soft cardio is perfect. It's infinitely better than remaining sedentary, and for many people, it's a sustainable way to maintain an active lifestyle. The gentle nature of soft cardio also makes it ideal for active recovery days, when you want to move without taxing your body.

However, if you're looking to improve your cardiovascular fitness, increase your endurance, or achieve more significant health benefits, you'll need to include actual cardio workouts that challenge your heart and lungs. This doesn't mean every workout needs to be intense—even moderate-intensity cardio, where you can still talk but your breathing is elevated, provides substantial cardiovascular benefits.

The bottom line

Soft cardio has its place, and I genuinely appreciate that it's helping people embrace movement without feeling overwhelmed or intimidated. It's particularly valuable for keeping your heart slightly elevated without putting stress on your joints or muscles, which is especially important for those recovering from injury or managing chronic conditions. But let's call it what it is: light physical activity or gentle movement, not cardiovascular exercise in the traditional sense. If you want the cardiovascular adaptations that come with cardio—the improved heart health, increased lung capacity, and enhanced endurance—you need to include workouts that challenge your cardiovascular system.

For beginners, use soft cardio as a gateway to building more challenging workouts into your routine. Start with gentle movement to establish the habit of being active, then gradually increase the intensity as your fitness improves. You might begin with soft cardio walks and slowly pick up the pace over time, or add short intervals of brisker walking to your leisurely strolls.

The trend isn't bad. But understanding the difference between moving your body and training your cardiovascular system will help you set realistic expectations and design a fitness routine that actually meets your goals.

Does Walking Really Count As Cardio?

Walking is an easy way to get some exercise in your day, and it delivers mental health benefits as well. I’m one of the many people who added daily walks to my routine during the pandemic, and they improved my life so much I don’t intend to stop. But does walking do enough for your body that you can count it as cardio exercise?

The answer is complicated. Walking counts as cardio in some respects: it can burn calories, it gets your heart rate up, and it counts toward the exercise we should all be getting every week. But on the other hand, it’s not going to increase your cardio fitness in the same way as a run or an intense aerobics class would. If you want to improve your endurance, you’ll have to do more than just walk.

How walking’s calorie burn compares to running

Running burns more calories than walking per unit time, but both are similar when you consider distance.

A rule of thumb is that you burn about 100 calories per mile whether you run it or walk it, but in truth calorie burn varies according to the size of your body (you burn more calories if you are larger) and how fast you run or walk. The calories per mile are slightly lower when you walk. This calculator estimates that a 150-pound person will burn 108 calories by walking a mile at 3 miles per hour, or 104 calories by running it at 6 miles per hour. Some calculators give a lower estimate for walking,

The bigger difference is in calories per hour (rather than calories per mile): for the same 150-pound person, walking burns 324 calories per hour, and running burns 627. The faster you go, the higher the calorie burn. So if you’re walking or running to burn calories, running will burn about double the calories in a given time. But if you prefer walking and you have the time to spare, both will do the job.

Walking can’t replace “vigorous” cardio

Each intensity level of exercise offers its own benefits. Walking is what I’d consider very easy cardio, jogging is more of a medium exercise, and high-intensity cardio would be something like sprinting or racing. All of these are good for you, although depending on your goals, you may not need to do all of them.

If you want to be a fast runner, for example, you’ll need plenty of medium cardio (slow running) and some higher intensity stuff (speedwork); if you want to improve your endurance, as measured by metrics like VO2max, you’ll definitely need to put in some work at these intensities.

On the other hand, if you’re just trying to get some movement in your life and you don’t care about getting better at it, lower intensity exercise like walking may be enough.

According to major health organizations (including the CDC, the WHO, and the AHA), we should all be getting at least 150 minutes per week of “moderate” exercise, or 75 minutes of “vigorous” exercise. You can mix and match, with the idea that each minute of vigorous exercise counts double.

So where does walking fall in that recommendation? Walking is moderate, and I have more here on how that's defined. But if you want a rule of thumb to compare it to heart rate, the American Heart Association defines moderate exercise as that in which your heart rate is between 50-70% of your max, and vigorous exercise as between 70-85% of your max. (That does assume you know your true max.) Walking will generally be in the moderate range, so you’ll have to do twice as much of it—counting in minutes—as if you chose to do more vigorous cardio. That matches up with our calorie calculations.

Walking doesn’t have to mean an easy stroll

The distinction between walking and running is a mechanical one: if you always have at least one foot on the ground, you’re walking. If instead your gait has a little hop as you move from foot to foot, you’re running. (Jogging is simply a slow run.)

It’s often easier to keep up a higher intensity (and a higher heart rate) by running than by walking, but that’s not always true. If you’re hiking up a mountain, your heart rate can easily get into the “vigorous” zone. And if you’re an efficient enough runner, you may be able to go for a slow jog while you keep your heart rate down in the “moderate” realm.

As you’re planning your workouts, think about the intensity: Measure your heart rate if you aren’t sure where you fall; you can use a tracker like a Fitbit or an Apple Watch to do this, but you can also just put two fingers on the side of your neck and count the beats of your pulse. If your max is 200 and you count 150 beats per minute, you’re at 75% of your max heart rate.

Maybe walking gets you a higher heart rate than you thought—not impossible if you’re a beginner or if your walks take you over hilly terrain. If you want a tougher cardio workout, you can walk faster, or you can choose a different type of exercise like cycling or dancing that gets your heart rate up higher. But it’s fine to go for an easy walk if that’s all you’re aiming for.

I Use Google Pixel and Samsung Galaxy Phones Every Day, and Here’s How They Differ

If you're going to go with Android rather than an iPhone for your smartphone, then Google Pixel and Samsung Galaxy handsets are the two most high-profile options you've got. There are other Android phones worth considering—from the likes of OnePlus and Nothing, for example—but Google and Samsung are the most well-known.

While the fundamental operating system on Pixel and Galaxy phones is the same, there are numerous differences between these two flavors of Android. They're not all obvious, though, unless you spend every day with these handsets, and that can make it tricky to decide whether you're better off going with Google or Samsung.

As it happens, I use Pixel and Galaxy phones every day, more or less—not because tech journalists are particularly wealthy, but because we have to write a lot of reviews, news stories, and how-to guides for our jobs. Here's what I've learned along the way, and how you can choose between Pixel phones and Galaxy phones.

Customization and clutter

In the old days we used to talk about "stock" Android on Google's Nexus or Pixel phones, but that doesn't really exist any more: Even Google puts its own twists and tweaks on the Android Open Source Project (AOSP) that every Android manufacturer has access to. Samsung adds even more on top of the AOSP foundation, and markets its own take on Android as One UI.

There's no doubt that One UI on Galaxy phones is busier and more complex than Android on Pixel phones—which can either be a positive or a negative, depending on how you like your mobile software. Samsung offers more settings, customizations, and configurations than Google, so One UI is going to appeal to power users.

Samsung's One UI gives you a lot of customization options. Credit: Lifehacker

Galaxy phones offer more in the way of theming options, for example, which completely transform the look of the software—though Pixels have caught up to some extent with features like icon theming in recent updates. You can do more on the lock screen with Samsung phones too, tweaking frames, widgets, and effects as needed.

Google takes a simpler approach to the user interface—which you could praise as uncluttered or criticize as basic, depending on your perspective and taste. The Pixel version of Android has gotten a bit more polished over time, and has borrowed a few tricks from Samsung, but it's still not as customizable overall.

Apps and ecosystem

With Pixel phones, Google's apps are front and center. On a Galaxy phone, you get all of Google's key apps, and all of Samsung's equivalents, installed by default: So again, Galaxy phones are the more cluttered of the two. There's nothing wrong with Samsung's apps for photos, calendars, contacts, web browsing, and so on, but it's likely that most of the time you're going to prefer the Google option.

That might change depending on what else you own: If you have a Galaxy Watch strapped to your wrist, then Samsung Health becomes far more useful and interesting. If you've gone for a Pixel Watch, then you're going to prefer the Google-owned Fitbit. As with most tech purchases these days, from TVs to smart speakers to laptops, you'll need to consider what else you own from Google or Samsung.

Pixels offer easier access to Google's many and varied apps. Credit: Lifehacker

Google does keep some features as exclusives for Pixel phones, though they often trickle out to the wider Android ecosystem over time. At the moment, they include Call Screen (for putting a barrier between you and spam calls), the real-time Scam Detection feature, Pixel Screenshots for analyzing your screengrabs, a Now Playing widget for the home screen, and photo features such as Night Sight.

In some cases, Samsung has counterparts for those Pixel exclusives, and it has a few exclusives of its own that you don't get with Pixel phones. There's also the suite of Good Lock modules that take phone customization and tweaking to the next level: You can set different volume levels for different apps, design your own themes, and take more control over your home screen, for example.

Hardware differences and updates

I don't want to talk too much about hardware differences, because these change regularly with each passing year (or even every six months), but there's no doubt that hardware design comes into play when you're choosing a smartphone—and broadly speaking, I think most people will agree that Samsung's phones are more sleek and stylish.

Aesthetics are subjective, but the Samsung Galaxy series look closer to the polish and refinement of the iPhones, whereas Google takes a more simplified and industrial approach to its Pixels: Look at that chunky rear camera bar for example (which to be fair does help when a phone is laid flat).

Handsets like the Galaxy S25 are easy on the eye. Credit: Samsung

Performance is difficult to gauge, but it's fair to say that the Snapdragon (and even Exynos) chipsets that Samsung uses have a better reputation than the Tensor CPUs that Google puts in its Pixel phones. That said, there's an argument to be made that Google wins on camera lens quality, which is something the Galaxy series hasn't really moved the needle much on in recent years.

What's indisputable is that Android updates roll out to Google phones several months before Samsung phones: Samsung needs time to adapt the AOSP code for its own One UI release, and so if you want to get the latest Android features before anyone else, the Pixel series is your best bet.

My personal preferences

If I'm buying a new Android phone for myself, I'll still usually go with a Google Pixel. The software interface is a little more rudimentary, but I don't mind that, and I use so many Google apps so regularly—Gmail, Google Chat, Google Maps, Google Keep—that I want the most friction-free and seamless access to them possible. I don't want or need a bunch of Samsung apps too.

That's not to say Galaxy phones don't have their appeal, and I like tinkering around with some of the extra features and hacks you don't get with Pixels—like the secret wifi menu, for example, or the built-in easy mode. Ultimately, though, Pixels feel more intuitive and easier to use for me, and I absolutely want to be first in the queue for Android updates.

The Pixel 10 Pro Fold showing off Google's distinctive design language. Credit: Google

Admittedly, part of this is down to familiarity. I've been using Google phones more regularly for across a longer span of time than Samsung phones, and I'm used to them and the way they work—if you're a seasoned Galaxy phone owner, then the benefits of a Pixel probably won't have as much appeal, considering you're going to have to get used to a different set of options and menus.